Shoe last



Nov; 27 1923 F. G. DELBON SHOE LAST Filed Oct. 19. 1921 2 Sheets-Sheet 1INVENTOR [E A/Yb 04 50 ATTORNEY Nov. 27, 1923 DELBON SHOE LAST 2Sheets-Sheet 2 XI ull I'Il I :11. "*FATTORNEY Patented Nov. 27, 1923.

UNITED STATES FRANK G. DELBON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

SHOE LAST.

Application filed October 19, 1921.

To all whom "it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK G. DimnoN, a citizen of the United States, anda resident of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe Lasts, ofwhich the following is a specification.

The invention consists in the production of a novel last for use in themanufacture of shoes adapted to the feet of men, women and children.

The last of my invention is built on lines and in accordance with asystem of measurements which have not heretofore been followed in themanufacture of lasts, and this same system may be properly followed inthe grading of the sizes of lasts or the development of a set of lastsfrom, say, a 4B model.

One object of the invention is to provide for the manufacture of shoes(from a small size for children to a large size for adults) suited tothe geometrical and anatomical construction of a normal human foot andadapted to preserve, or regain where lost, the original lines of thefoot, the shoes also being of good appearance and faultless fit.

My invention therefore provides a shoe last which is novel in its formand relative proportions and produced by a system adapted to be followedin the production of a set of lasts or lasts of graded sizes.

I11 carrying out my invention I have had particular regard to the propermaintenance in a normal working condition of the various bones, jointsand ligaments of the human foot, to preserve the normal condition of theplantar arch and to restore such arch, if weakened, to a normal workingcondition, and to provide for the foot what I may term an effectualthree-part-support. as will be explained hereinafter.

The admeasurements and system by which I produce my novel last may bebetter understood on reference to the drawings illustrative of the same.I may say generally however that the last both longitudinally andtransversely considered is subdivided into three parts or divisions,one-third in length extending from the toe to the ball and twothirdsextending from the heel to the ball, while the division line for theinstep is onehalf of the length of the last.

The invention will be fully understood from the detailed descriptionhereinafter Serial No. 508,650.

presented, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig.1 is a side elevation, diagrammatically shown, of a last embodyingthe features of my invention, Fig. 1 showing a diagram of the lines onwhich the adlneasurements or relative proportions of the last arepatterned;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the finished last;

Fig. 3 is a top view of the same;

Fig. 4 is a bottom view of the same;

Fig. 5 is a vertical transverse section through the same, taken on thedotted line 55 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 6 is a further side elevation of the last illustrating the methodfollowed for patterning the last in accordance with the varying heightsof the heels to be employed on the shoes made therefrom;

Fig. 7 is a diagram of a human foot with scale lines indicated thereondenoting a portion of my method for obtaining the outlines for the last,and

Fig. 8 is a plan View defining a further portion of my method forobtaining the correct outlines for the last.

In constructing my last 1 make it longer than the human foot so as toallow space in the shoes for the freedom of the toes, and this extensionof the last is represented by the line X in Figs. 1, 6, 7 and 8. Thisextension X is usual in the construction of lasts and is additional toand forms no part of my system in attaining the proper adpoeasurementsfor the main portion of the ast.

In arriving at the proper proportions for the pattern or model last. Istart within the confines of an angle represented by a horizontal line Aand a vertical line B, and. referring to Fig. 1, determine the height ofthe heel for the shoe to be built, this height, as an illustration,being represented. by the line The length of the last, .disregarding theextension X, is evenly divided longitudinally into thirds. as indicatedby the lines D. E. F. one-third of the length extending from the toe tothe sesamoid bones or the anterior ends of the metatarsal bones. denotedat the line G, and the other two-thirds of the length extending from thesaid line G to the back heel-line H. I also subdivide the length for thelast by a central vertical line I, which divides the last ill) into twoequal parts and is an instep defining line for a human foot standing ona flat horizontal surface. The line 1 changes position in accordancewith the height of the heel line 0, since when consideration is paid tothe height of the heel the rear end of the last becomes more or lesselevated above the base line A, and. in the diagram shown in Fig. 1, Iindicate the instep line I, due to the elevation of the heel. part ofthe last, as having been deflected forwardly to the position of andforming line J. In my pattern and system a straight upwardly andrearwardly inclined line K extends from the anterior end of themetatarsal bones, denoted at line G, to the lower rear edge of the heelportion 10 of the last, and this line K always being followed regardless of the height of the heel line C, the instep-line J must intersectwith it and the vertical line I, at the point-L, the line J being atright angles to the line K. A ball admeasurement line M is drawn atright angles to the forward end of the line K, and this line M in theprimary ad measurement; of the human foot standing flat starts at theline N which is at right angles at the base lineA and denotes onethirdof the length of the foot. The tilting of the rear end of the lastupwardly in accordance with the heel admeasure' ment throws the line Nforwardly to the position of the ball line M. The waist line for thelast is determined by the line 0 which extends from the upper end of theball line M to the intersection point L or lower end of the instep lineJ. The waist measurement for the last is around the last on the line 0,and I call attention to the fact that in accordance with my inventionthis waist measure line extends dow" wardly and. rearwardly and.considered from the inner side of the foot extends from a point abovethe anterior end of the large metatarsal to a point below the rear endof said bone, as may be understood on reference to Fig. 7, said lineextending around the foot and not crossing on said anterior end. of saidbone. Both lines J, M

stand at right angles to the line and are.

parallel with each other. The point L is a fixed point. and theintersecting point of lines M and 0' will follow the thickness of thefoot and accordingly with the thickness of the last and the consequentnecessary. height of the line M, but wherever such intersecting pointmay be located the waist measure will be around the foot on said pointand the point L or on theline U.

'Sineethe intersecting: point of'lines M and 0 becomes higheror lower inaccordance with the thicknessdesired for the last, the angle-betweenthelines O and K will vary accordingly; There can. be no fixed anglebetween" lines" 0 and-K except for one ea aces known thickness of lastand one known heel height. The intersecting point of the lines W G. isalways definite. since with any desired thickness of last, said point ison the line hit at the top of the last, whether the last is two inchesthick at said line or of greater or less thickness, and the waist line 0will extend from said point on line M determined by the thickness of thelast, to the aforesaid point L.

The upper instep point for the last from which the shoe ci'irvesupwardly to the front portion of the leg, is denoted at P, and thispoint, according to my system. in every vertical thickness of the lastrequired, will always be on the line Q, which starting from the junctureot the angle-lines A, B, inclines n1 vardly and forwardly and stands onan angle of degrees to both lines A, B. The admeasurement for the backpart of the last is found by the line B which inclines rearwardly fromthe pointP to the lower rear point of the heel portion 10 of the last atthe vertical line B. The angle of the line R necessarily varies inaccordance with the location of the point P on the line Q, this locationvarying with the heelheight and the initial thickness of the last at theinstep thereof, but said line It whatever its angle may be is definitelylocated and will correctly give the back measure for the last. Lastsn'iust vary in thickness in, accordance with the feet for which theshoes are to be made, and with my inventhe high instep point of thelast. denoted at P, when positioned on the right angle line. Q, with thebaclr of the heel of the last against the vertical. line B, enables meto obtain a correct back admeasurcment on the line for all lastsregardless of their thicle ncss. since with each thickness of last thepointPthereof is a definite point for that thickness and when posi ionedon the line Q. with the back of the heel portion against the line B. theadineasurement on the line It for that thickness is correct.

An essential considcratimi in the manu facture of lasts consists ingiving the proper curvature to the inner side thereof between the balland the heel. The extent and character of this curvature is in'iportantespecially when the plantar arch of the foot is to be properlysupported. in accordance with my system 1. find it entirely convenientto lay out the curvature i'or the inne side of the arch of the last bythe diagram represented in Fig. l, in which I show a line S drawn.parallel with the base line K and starting from the intersection pointat the upper ends of the ball line M and waistline U, this line Sextending upwardly and. rearwardly parallel with the line K and at rightangles to the ball-line M. A. vertical line Y denotes the rear one-thirddivision of the length of'the foot, and this line T, as

ill?) the heel portion of the last is raised or lowered in accordancewith the heel height line (J, becomes deflected with relation to thelast, and when the last is for a heel of the height of the line C, theupper portion of the line T breaks at the base line K and becomesdefiected forwardly and then constitutes the line U, the position ofthis line U varying with the height desired for the heel of the shoe. Inthe present instance the break of the line T is denoted at the line K,and the line U standing at right angles to the line K and extending tothe line S denotes the central point V for the curvature to be formed atthe inner arch side of the last. The upper line for the curvature at theinner side of the last extends on the arc of a circle from the junctureor ball point of the lines K, M, through the point V and to the rear endof the line K at the heel portion of the last, and said are line isdenoted by the letter IV. The curvature of the last, at the sole portionthereof and at the base of the aforesaid arch curvature, is defined bythe are lines Z, Y, the line Z extending downwardly and forwardly on aconvex are from the point V to the intersection point of the lines K, M.and the line Y extending downwardly and rearwardly on a concave arc fromthe point V to the front of the heel rest. The arc-line Z is struck froma point representing the apex of an equilateral triangle whose basewould be represented by a straight line drawn from the point V to theaforesaid intersection point of the lines K, M. The arcline Y is struckfrom a point representing the apex of an equilateral triangle whose basewould be represented by a straight line drawn from the point V to thepoint on the heel line B at which the line B of Fig. 1 would ifcontinued toward the right cross said line B.

In Fig. 6 I present a diagram illustrating the changes in the variouslines hcreinbcforo referred to which take place with variations in theheight of the heel desired for the shoe to be made from the last, andtierein I denote the several heel height lines by a, b, 0, respectively.When the heel height is that represented by the line a. the base line Kat Fig. I will become situated at line I\'; when the heel height. isrepresented by the line (1 the line I; oi Fig. l lacomcs posh tinned atline K", and when the heel height is represented by the line 0 the lineK of Fig. 1 becomes positioned at line K. \Vith the varying heel heightsthe foot center line I remains in its central position and the instepline J of Fig. 1 becomes positioned at J, J" and J, respectively, whilethe ball line M of the natural foot. when standing flat, becomespositioned at the lines M, M" and M' of Fig. 6. In regard to the variousheights of heels for the shoes I may say that additional diagram linesin Fig. 6, having indicated the main lines therein with the changesfollowing the different heights for the heels.

In Fig. 7 I represent on a diagrammatic representation of the humanfoot, the instep line J, ball line M, base line K, 45 angle line Q, andthe admeasurement line It corresponding with the same lines presented inFig. .1.

In Fig. 8, which represents the sole por tion of the last and gives anoutline for the insole pattern, it will be seen that the bot tom of thelast is divided into thirds and halves in length, the same as theadmeasurements shown in Fig. 1, and that longitudinally the last isdivided into thirds to harmonize with foot admeasurements and serve as aguide for the formation of the last, the division lines for the thirdsbeing lettered d and the line for the halves being indicated at e. Thediagram in Fig. 8 is outlined by an oblong, and a diagonal line 7'extends from the lower corner of the oblong at one end of the outline tothe opposite upper corncr portion of the oblong at the upper end of theextension line X. The oblong shown in Fig. 8, aside from the extensionat X, has a width equal to one third of its length. The line 9 is thetransverse ball line, and it stands at right angles to the line f andextends from the point G rearwardly to the opposite side of the foot orthe sole of the last, finding its true position by starting at G andextending at right angles across the line I also apply on the diagramshown in Fig. 8 a guiding or direction line 71. which also is at rightangles to the line f and starts at the one third division point 2'. andextends on a roarward incline across to the opposite side of the footand finding its position from the fact that it starts at the point i andcrosses the aforesaid line 7'' at right angles thereto. The upper end ofthe line 7b (looking at Fig. 8) extends toward the heel one-third of thedistance between the line (Z and the heel end of the last or of theoblong represented in Fig. 9. The metatarsal arch is defined between thelines 9, 72 the curvature at the inner side of the last and'shoe beingforwardly of the curvature of the last for the outer side of the shoe,as represented by the diagonal disposition of the lines 9, h.

The line 7 denotes the ball line for the sole of the last andconsequently for the shoe, and the line it defines the forward edge ofthe heel-seat and which on the last is usually represented by a metalplate as shown in Figs. 2 and 4:.

The curved lines Z, Y denote approxiiii) lfii) mat'ely the curvaturescarried down under the sole of the last, the line Z extending from thepoint V of Fig. 1 downwardly and forwardly under the shank and vanishingunder the hall 1" the sole, as indicated in Fig. 4t, and the line Y,starting at the point- V, curving downwardly and rearwardly un der theshank to the point of the line it where the same meets the forwardcorner of the heel-rest at the inner side of the-last. Between the linesZ, Y is formed the deeper concavity of the recess at the inner side ofthe shank oi the last. In Fig. 1- I have indicat-ed the line U toillustrate its direction and terminus under the shank of the last, saidconcavity along and adjacent to said line affording an. effectivesupport for the transverse arch oil. the toot and stopping at a lineabout two-thirds across the bottom ot' the last toward the outer sidethereof whereat in a foot is located the fifth metatarsal.

The last constructed in accordance with the method or systemhereinbet'ore described is illustrated in 1 to 5 inclusive, in whichdesignates the last as a whole, and 10 the heel portion, 16 the shank,1? the forward sole and 18 the instep portions there of. The heelportion 10 usually has secured on its lower side a metal heel plate 19,and in the illustration I have shown the last as made in two parts 20,21, but the last may be formed in one piece of material it de sired. Theforward sole portion 17 ot the last is about one-third of the length ofthe shoe to be produced, plus an extension for the toe, represented bythe line X in Figv 1. The last made in accordance with my sys tem has amore elevated instep 18 than s usual in lasts and a smaller waistportion measured. on the line 0 than lasts as heretofore constructed,and these proportions as to the instep and waist result in a betterfitting shoe.

The instep portion 18 of the last is of special forn'iation, as shown inFigs. 3 and 5, being of sharp triangular or cross-section and having itsapex or sharp ridge 22 extending downwardly and forwardly in anapproximately straight line toward that portion of the last representingthe large toe of the foot, said ridge 22 being, as shown in Fig, 3,slantingly directed toward. the inner side ot the -forward end of: thelast and. at its forward portion being on. a concave curve and merginginto the upper forward portion 01 the last at about the upper end ot thebal line M. In its upper portion the ridge or apenline 22 is on a convexcurve, and hencesaid line as a wholerepresents a compound curve. Thetriangular"formation of the instep portion 18 becomes less acute towardthe forward portion of the last and finally disappears in the generalupper surface of the forward portion of the last. The high point for theinstep portionot the last is denoted at P, this being the point at whichthe material. of ashoe made on the last would turn upwardly to form theankle portion of the shoe. The location of the intersection point P onthe line Q will vary with the height of the heel to be worn. The point Pbecomes more or less elevated according to the heel-height, asrepresented in Fig. 6, said point P being on the line Q where said. linecrosses upwardly from the upper edge or thickness-line 01 the last. Theline lit drawn :trom' the lower back point of the heel across the line Qat the point P creates an intersection point, which represents the highpoint tor the instep and from which on the line B the measurement forthe back portion of the last is given, the line R passing around thelast on the angle shown representing such measurement, and theintersecting point P positioning the line H for correct measurement.

At the inner side oil the ridge or apex line 22, the last extendsdownwardly there from on a convex; curve 28 to the upper outer edges ofa recess 2st which 1 form at the inner side of the shank portion of thelast and which is of material in'iportance and considerable dimensions,said recess being generally defined by the arched line W in Fig. 1 andhaving a curved convex surface formation and being longitudinallyc'oncaved and extending down under the shank ot the last and terminatingat its for ward edge slightly in rear of the ball line g of Fig. 8; asshown inv Fig. 41, and at its rearward portion ending at the apex of alongitudinal triangular ridge or rib which is positioned adjacent to theouter side of the last and sets in from the outer side edge of the shanka distance about mic-third oi? the width of the shank. The outer side ctthe shank is curredv inwardly under the shank on a convex surface'lorinutiou to the longitudinalridge or rib thereby torniing an outerside recess 26 and aiding in the formation of said ridge 25. At itsforward end the ridge terminates in a triangula. formation 27 (Fig. 4-)upon which and directly to the trout oi the ridg 5 is a downwardlyprojecting convex elevation 25 this being located in position to toruuva shallow seat in the sole of a shoe for the anterior end of the outerside metatarsal hone ot the foot. The ridge or rib f3 ults in t is l'n'- mation in. the shoe ma: our the last. longitudinal seat or rest torthe outer bones of the foot which are low at this location and arewiththe use of my iurention permitted to take a natural comfortable positionand not compelled to withstand pressures-except those intended by naturefor them; this feature of my last I regard as important and entirelynovel.

At its foriard edge the recess 2% curves inwardly and rearwardly belowthe shank,

as denoted at the line 29 in Fig. 4, and just forward of said line 29the ball of the last is formed with a downwardly extending convexprojection 30, whose presence on the last results in the formation in ashoe made therefrom of a concave seat for the sesamoid bone on or theanterior end of the inner side metatarsal bone of the foot.

Between the projections 28, 30 on the sole portion of the last, the lastis sligthly concaved, as at 31, to meet the natural requirements of theforward end of the plantar arch of the foot.

The bottom portion of my last provides a shoe sole adapted to enable afoot to have the strains thereon properly distribi'ited and thereby toprevent such strains from weak ening or otherwise injuring the ligamentsof the foot. The major portion of the weight of the human body on a footshould be received by the inner side of the foot, and this I provide forby the extent of the recess 24-. which provides, in the shoe, a fullbearing support for the fleshy part of the foot under the arch and forthe bones of the arch. The bottom portion of my last provides, in theshoe, what I regard as a threepart support for the foot, one being atthe heel, which gives support to the main arch from the high instep tothe ankle and to the main leg structure; another being at the walls ofthe recess 24: from the heel to the projection 30, and the third beingfrom the heel along the ridge 25 to the projection 28.

-" The anterior portion of the metatarsal arch or ball of the foot isnot only supported by the seats alforded by the projections 28, 30, butalso by the material between said seats, and undue strain thereon isprevented by the supports aiforded by the ridge 25 and walls of therecesses 24:, 26.

My last has been designed with the view of so distributing the strainson a foot as to avoid weakening of or other injury to the ligamentsabout the tarsal and metatarsal bones, to properly support the plantararch and to provide efficient bearing surfaces for the sole portion of afoot, having regard not only to the support afforded by the sole of ashoe generally but to a support which will ensure comfort to the wearerof the shoe and save the foot against the effects of an unnaturaldistribution of strains thereon.

The last shown and produced by the system l have hereinbefore outlined,is adapted to the production of shoes suited to the geometrical andanatomical construction of the human foot, to preserve the archconstruction of the foot and to relieve the foot from the effects ofweakened arches.

I have hereinbefore indicated certain relative proportions for certainparts of the last and these admeasurements should be followed when thebest results are to be atta-ined. I do not limit my invention, however,to the exact proportions stated, since to do so would leavemy inventionopen to appropriation by others on slight modification of theadmeasurements indicated. I regard my last as distinctly novel and asconstituting an important advance in the art and hence desire to receiveadequate protection for my invention.

lVhat I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters-Patent,is:

1. A shoe-last of the character described having at its inner side aconcave arched recess spreadin downwardly and longitudinally below tieshank of the last and en tending from the ball line to the heel, saidarched recess also extending transversely across the shank on curvedlines for a distance approximately twothirds of the width of the shank,whereby a substantial arch is provided to create in a shoe an archsupport for the first, second, third and fourth metatarsals and innerportion of the plantar fascia, and said last having at its outer side acomparatively shallow arched recess having convex surfaces and extendingtransversely across the shank a distance approximately one-third of thewidth of the shank, and said shank having at the line between said innerand outer side arches a longitudinal ridge to form in the shoe a restand support for the fifth metatarsal and outer portions of the plantarfascia.

2. A shoe-last as claimed in claim 1, in which the forward portion ofthe inner side arched recess extends inwardly and rearwardly on arearwardly curved line at the rear end of the inner side portion of thesole, and in which the forward portion of the outer side arched recessextends inwardly and rearwardly at the rear end of the outer sideportion of the sole, and in which the inner side recess extendsforwardly on concave lines into the middle portion of the rear end ofthe sole to adapt the shoe for the requirements of the forward end ofthe plantar arch of the foot and leave at opposite sides of said concaveportion seats for the anterior ends of the first and fifth metatarsals.

3. A shoe-last of the character described having a forward portion aboutone-third of the length of the last and 21 waist portion determinedbetween two upwardly and forwardly inclined parallel lines one of whichdenotes the mesne instep portion of the last, said lines standing atright angles to an inclined base line running from the ball of the lastto the outer end of the heelseat, and the forward one of said parallellines at its lower end starting from the forward end of said inclinedline, and the other of said parallel lines intersecting said inclinedline at a point denoting one-half of the length of the last, theadmeasurement of said waist portion being on an inclined line extendingfrom the point on said forward line denoting the thickness of the lastat that portion .to the intersecting point of the rear one of saidparallel lines with said base line.

4. A shoe-last of the character described having a forward portion whichis about one-third of the length or the last, a waist portion and anupper instep portion, said Waist portion being determined between twoupwardly and forwardly inclined parallel lines, the rear one of whichdenotes the inesne instep portion of the last, said lines standing atright angles to :an inclined base line running fI'OlIlthG ball. or" thelast to the outer end oi. the heel-seat and the :t'orward one of saidparallel lines at its lower end starting from the forward end of saidinclined line, and the other of said parallel lines intersecting saidinclined line at a point denoting one-half of the length of the last,the adnieasureinent of said wais portion being on an inclined lineextending from the point on said forward line denoting the thickness ofthe last that portion to the intersecting point of the rear one of saidparallel lines with said base line, and the adineasureinent for the backportion of the last being, on an inclined line extending from the highinstep point of the last to the rear end of .the heel seat for the netwhen said instep point is on a line extended through the last from thevertex of and biscctinga right angle confiningthe last at its sole andback portions.

5. A shoe-last of the character descril ed having a sharply definedinstep portion of triangular cross sectioinand the admeasurement for theback portion of the last being on an inclined line extending from thehigh instep point of thelast to the rear end of the heel seat for thelast when said point is on a line extended through the last from thevertex of and biseeting a right angle conlining the last at its sole andback portions.

6. A shoe-last of the character described having a forward portion whichis about one third of the length of the last, the ballportion of thelast being at the rear end of this one-third division, an inner sideconcave arched recess spreading downwardly and longitudinallv below theshank of the last and terminatin at its front portion adjacent to thehall of the last and at its rear portion at the side of the heel-seat,said recess being confined between an inclined base line extending fromthe base of said one-third division of the last to the lower rear edgeof the heel-seat and an upper inclined line parallel with said base lineand extending through the heel portion of the last from a point denotedat the upper end 01 a line extending upwardly and forwardly from and at.a right angle to the forward end of said base line and ending at the topof the last, and the deeper iniddle portion of the recess being denotedby a line connecting said inclined parallel. lines and starting from themiddle point of said base line and standing at a right angle thereto.

Signed at New York city, in the county of New York and State of NewYork, this 17th day of October, A. D. 1921.

FRANK DEL-EON.

